TWP Stain Tips for New Wood Decks
Preparing New Wood for TWP Stains
- New smooth wood needs to weather for 4-12 months after installation to reduce moisture and oxidize from UV exposure.
- Use the Gemini Restore A Deck Kit with Step 1 Wood Deck Cleaner and Step 2 Wood Deck Brightener to properly prep the wood.
- Apply only 1 coat of TWP Stain the first time; back wipe any excess that does not penetrate within 30 minutes.
When applying TWP Wood Stains to new wood for the first time, following the correct preparation steps is crucial. New smooth wood or decking is not ready for staining before installation or immediately after. Always adhere to the TWP Wood Stain guidelines rather than relying on advice from a lumber yard or paint store, as they may not fully understand the prep requirements for optimal results.
TWP and New Smooth Decking or Exterior Wood
New smooth wood is not sufficiently absorbent for TWP Stains due to higher moisture content and the presence of “mill glaze.” Mill glaze is a waxy film that forms during the milling process when high-speed blades heat the wood, drawing out sap and moisture. As this cools and dries, it creates a coating that prevents TWP Stain from properly penetrating the wood grain.
Important Note:
- New Rough Sawn Wood/Fencing: Unlike smooth wood, new rough sawn vertical wood or fencing can be stained immediately after installation without waiting or extensive preparation, as it lacks mill glaze and is highly absorbent.
- Ensure the rough sawn wood is fully dry before staining. If it has aged or oxidized (turned gray), prep it using the Gemini Restore Kit before application. For newly installed rough sawn wood, one coat of stain is usually sufficient.
Proper preparation ensures your TWP stain delivers its intended durability and beauty, whether you’re working with smooth or rough sawn wood.
Tips for TWP and New Wood
Let the Wood Weather First
TWP wants the wood to weather and dry out for 4-12 months after installation. This will allow the moisture content to drop and the exposed wood cells will oxidize from the sun’s UV, turning slightly gray.
Prepping New Wood for TWP Stains
After letting the wood weather it is time to prep the wood. This step consists of using the Gemini Restore A Deck Kit. This kit contains both a Step 1 Wood Deck Cleaner and a Step 2 Wood Deck Brightener. The Step 1 cleaner will help remove the dirt, graying, and mill glaze from the wood while Step 2 Brightener will neutralize the cleaner and help restore the natural color.
Staining New Wood and Decking for the First Time
Even after the waiting period and the proper prepping, new smooth wood is still not as absorbent as it will be in a few years. We strongly suggest only applying 1 coat of the TWP Stains the first time. Do not over apply as the TWP may not penetrate into the wood correctly. Make sure to back wipe any excess stain that does not penetrate properly into the wood after 30 minutes. For new smooth wood, the TWP 100 Series if allowed in your state, otherwise use the TWP 1500 Series.
Maintaining TWP Stains
Apply a light maintenance coat to the flooring in 9-24 months. If just slightly dirty prep with soapy water to remove grime and reapply one light coat. If you wait 18-24 months make sure to prep again with the Gemini Restore A Deck. After the first year or two, your wood will be able to absorb more TWP stain which results in a longer stain life and protection!
TWP Pro Tip:
TWP is a penetrating wood preservative. It performs properly when it penetrates 100% into the wood. Over applying will not result in longer protection.
Have a Question? Please Ask Below.
Originally the deck stain I used was TWP
I have an old cedar deck. It hasn’t been stained in like three years. It’s been power washed. It’s very clean. I’m missing probably 60% of the old stain 40% is left. I’m wondering what would be the best procedure on moving forward with retaining it
With roughly 60% of the old stain worn away unevenly, a light cleaning coat won’t give you an even result. Go with the Stripper + Brightener kit to take it back to bare wood, then apply one coat of TWP once it’s fully dry. Since you’re staying with TWP, just make sure the old stain is fully removed before recoating
I am having a new floor put on my deck. Do I need to stain the bottom the first time. I recall I did this years ago to avoid warping.
No, only need to stain the exposed side after install and prep.
Just applied a second coat of 1500 Cedartone, about a year after the first coat on new pressure treated pine. As I had done before the first coat, I used the cleaner and brightener on the deck before this application, since it had grayed some. Now it’s been almost 24 hours since applying this second coat, and it’s looking like I should have wiped some excess off the boards. I didn’t think I was putting it on that heavy with the brush, but it’s still pretty shiny in spots, like it’s not going to soak in like it should. So, having apparently messed up a bit, what kind of remedy should i pursue?
See here for tips: https://twpstainhelp.com/twp-stain-is-spotty-or-shiny/
Follow-up question. For the previously mentioned deck, how much product should be needed for a deck in that condition if has 715 SqFt of flat surface and 34.2 linear feet of pine railings (AI says that is equivalent to about 852 SqFt total)
Please read this for tips: https://www.twpstain.com/twp-deck-stain-calculator
I am having a new pressure treated southern yellow pine deck (Not KDAT) the was finished last fall stained soon with TWP 1501. This is in eastern Massachusettes.
After reading about all the issues over staining can cause I told the contractor that it may or may not take 2 coats… so they said they will only do one ( don’ think they do a lot of oil stains and have never used TWP products)…
The deck was finished last fall and appears to have a significant amount of checking, as most boards have multiple cracks. Does that mean it likely should have 2 coats? If it needs 2 coats but only one is done, what would be the downside? Would it be bad for the deck?
Thanks
The above directions state one coat only for new wood, and you must wait a minimum of 4 months after installation and then prep. Not sure if that was done?
FYI, the wood checking and having cracks have nothing to do with the deck being stained or not. This is the wood itself doing this, and it is a known issue with pine. It cannot be prevented with a deck stain or a sealer.
The deck was finished last October so that was 8 months ago. My question was if the checking means the deck is more likely to be able to take 2 coats or need more for a single coat even though the deck is new… The AI’s I asked said it likely could because of the checking, but AI can be wrong , which i why I asked here…
Also was asking If it COULD take 2 coats but only one coat is done, would that hurt the deck longevity.
The second question was related to if the amount of product needed could depend on the checking… (more could go into the cracks), which could be the case even for one quote.
As one needs have enough on hand I need to know if I should plan for one or two coats or if the wood would be usually “thirsty” with the checking. Assuming 150 SqFt sq ft per gallon it calculates to ~ 5.7 gallons for one coat and I want to know if 6 gallons is a safe amount to have on hand for one coat because of the amount of checking .
One coat. More is not better. You can always do a maintenance coat after a year. Your should be fine with the 6 gallons and the one coat.
I have just installed a brand new KDHT pine deck, railings and flooring at my house. The KDHT treated lumber is from Lowe’s. At this point it has been installed for roughly 6 weeks. On a sunny day the deck gets roughly 8 hours of direct sunlight. Would that shorten the amount of time that I need to let it sit and get weathered prior to staining?
For KDHT wood, about 2 months, and then prep with the Gemini Restore Kit. One coat of the TWP.
https://twpstainhelp.com/kdat-and-twp-wait-period-for-new-wood/
Ok thank you
Is TWP stain sold in any stores or just online?
We sell online only as a TWP stain dealer. We are not the manufacturer.
Good morning,
I stained new, double kiln died deck about 4 years ago with cedartone. I just pressure washed it and plan to use restore-a-deck to clean and brighten it. Going to use dark oak 1500 this time. Do I need a wet on wet application or will one coat be okay?
Most likely, it will need two coats applied wet on wet.
https://twpstainhelp.com/twp-stain-wet-on-wet-application/
Cedar fence installed 2021. It is 5 yrs old. Never stained. Weathered to a gray. I like the color. Choosing clear TWO. I have Taken to brooming off the fence. Do I need a a cleaner and I’m afraid of not liking a brightened. What do you suggest
To do it right, you should remove the gray oxidation with the cleaner. TWP is designed to be applied to a clean and properly prepped surface.
We are going to stain a log fence around our pasture. We have given it almost 2 years to be ready to stay. It’s such a large area. We were thinking of using a sprayer. What kind of sprayer would you recommend?
Any quality pump sprayer like these:
https://www.twpstain.com/chapin-sprayers
Or an airless paint sprayer. Make sure to prep well first:
https://www.twpstain.com/gemini-s-restore-a-deck-cleaner-and-brightener-kit
I am coating side-wall red cedar shingles on dormers where there are both asphalt roof shingles and solar panels nearby. I do not want spillage on either of these. Is it best to apply TWP with a brush, roller or sprayer? Is TWP thick enough to stay on a brush or roller?
Use a brush or stain pad. Make sure to tarp below to catch any drips.
I want to purchase two gallons of TWP 1500 semi-transparent, OIL based stain in rustic 116 color for my deck. I can’t locate it in Pennsylvania. Searches online provide me with the water based type, which I do not want. Any ideas?
TWP does not have a water-based stain. For PA, you want the TWP 1516 Rustic. It is oil-based:
https://www.twpstain.com/twp-1500-series
Where can I purchase the two gallons of TWP 1516 Rustic oil-based stain? I am located close to the east side of Pittsburgh in western Pennsylvania.
We sell online only as a TWP dealer. See this link:
https://www.twpstain.com/twp1500-1gallon
Can you provide images showing 1500 colors on treated pine?
https://www.twpstain.com/topics/twp-1500-series-stain-colors-and-photo-albums
What structure is your wood? 30×60 Barn
What species is the wood? Untreated pine directly from the sawmill
Is the wood new or older than 1 year? Some wood has been up for a year and other pieces were recently cut
Has the wood been stained previously with a different brand? There hasn’t been anything done to the wood. It has not even been pressure washed.
Attached are pictures of the slide of the barn. The barn is located in central Alabama where there is a lot of heat, humidity, and bugs. I would like to know what stain I need (leaning towards 1500 Pecan), if I need to purchase any of the prep items (cleaner/brighter) or if a clorox/water mixture would work, and if I need to purchase the bug juice.
Hello,
Use this kit for prep while pressure washing: https://www.twpstain.com/gemini-s-restore-a-deck-cleaner-and-brightener-kit
As for tthe stain, the TWP 1520 Pecan would work very well here. Only need the Bug Juice if tou have issues with bugs.
Hi
My PT deck been installed for a month but the wood was sitting outside all winter since October it’s now May do you think it’s ready to stain? What test should I do? Thanks and God bless.
You cannot stain it yet; wait 4 or more months after installation, then prep and stain as the article above suggests. Thanks
Next steps question: Yesterday I applied the Restore-a-Deck wood cleaner to my new cedar deck (built last October, so it’s had 7 mos to weather and dry out). Attempting to let the cleaner rest on the surface for 15 mins to do its chemical cleaning. However, sadly, I chose the hottest part of the day (86 degrees in direct sunlight) and it dried before the final rinse off. When I attempted to spray (just a garden hose spray attachment) it off, it didn’t come off well at all. In fact, it seems to have curdled and has left a thick, white film. (and the deck wasn’t even that dirty!). Using a broom and rinse water, the cleaner now gooped up in the bristles of the broom! Now I’ve got to figure out how to efficiently remove this dried cleaner off the surface so that it can dry clean and ready to stain. Last night I purchased a powerwasher that I’m going to try to use this morning before the hot sun bakes it on further. I’ve included 3 pics to show. Please help me! What are my next steps? will the cleaner rehydrate and be easily sprayed off?
What you are removing is gray oxidized wood cells. Reapply the cleaner (mist with water while working, if needed, to keep it from drying out), then pressure-wash it off. Rinse well when done to remove all the wood fibers, brighten last.
Pressure Washing Tips
I did exactly what you recommended, applied another cleaner application, kept it wet, then followed by brightening it, and then powerwashed it off. But… it still seems to be on the surface. You said it was oxidized wood fibers and not cleaner residue. After resting all night, it is a bit better, but still does not look ready for stain! As you can see in the pics, and I recommend scrolling in close up on the pics, there are still blotches of white. Ugh. We’re powerwashing it again. I’m wishing we didn’t apply any product since we’re having so much difficulty removing this blotchiness from the surface of our new (7 mos) cedar deck. btw, the last pic shows the stairway. The bottom 2 steps have been powerwashed again this morning. Have you seen this before with other decks? How can we get this white stuff off our deck?
This is just oxidation that you are not removing correctly or properly. It peels off like a layer of skin; where it is lighter/more natural looking is where it has already come off. You let the cleaner soften the gray oxidation, then pressure-wash it off before the brightener. You do not apply cleaner, then apply brightener right after, and then pressure-wash it off, as the brightener neutralizes the cleaner. The Brightener goes on last, after you have fully cleaned and removed the oxidation.
thanks for your quick reply! wow. I was expecting to need to sand all the surfaces of the deck, thinking the clumping was dried cleaner residue. So it’s wood oxidation! so… again, I need to reapply another coat of cleaner, and then, while wet, rinse it off with the powerwasher?
Pressure wash off, not just rinse. Use the tips above and wash 8-12 inches away until clean. If you bought an electric pressure washer, you may need to get close to the wood with the tips, as those are not as effective.
with New treated decking and rails aged 2 years do I do a wt on wet application
Yes, 2 coats applied wet on wet. Prep with the Gemini Restore Kit.
I have restore-a-deck cleaner and twp stain – cedar. It’s been two years of a deck. There’s mold on the deck, will the cleaner suffice or do I need to use some wood bleach to clear it.
Thanks,
Sean
Our prep will remove any dirt and mildew and prep for reapplication of the TWP.
i am in canada. can the 200 series be applied on new wood
After 4 or months of weathering and then prep with the Gemini Restore Kit.
We have a deck that was built 3 years ago and have been unable to stain it yet. Should I use the cleaner on this first? And would the 100 or the 1500 work best?
I am going with the dark oak. Does the 1500 apply darker than the 100?
Thanks for your help.
Use the Gemini Restore Kit for the prep. Either series will work. Colors are very similar for the Dark Oak.
Should I do one or two coats of stain?
2 coats applied wet on wet: https://twpstainhelp.com/twp-stain-wet-on-wet-application/
Tips for amount needed: https://www.twpstain.com/twp-deck-stain-calculator
My deck my is 10 months old, cedar. It has weathered outside for the 10 months in Nebraska. Should we apply one or two coats of TWP? Thanks!
One coat after the prep is typically the norm for any wood less than 1 year.
My deck is 12 months old, pine. It has not been stained or treated. Should I apply one or two coats of TWP 1500?
Two light coats applied wet on wet:
https://twpstainhelp.com/twp-stain-wet-on-wet-application/
Make sure to prep first as directed.
Hi, you have lots of answers here and the article is great! Put a new cedar deck down that is covered about 4 weeks ago. I’ll plan to wait until September to Clean, Brighten, and stain. Should we just use the deck as normal until then? Doing our best not to gouge the cedar, but it is soft!
Second question, we do have some “Rough Spots” and a board that is almost “Rough Sawn” I’ll just leave it all for now, but do you recommend any sort of smoothing or sanding in prep steps, or now? This is a new cedar, 5/4×6 deck boards.
Yes, go ahead and use the deck. It will not matter if you gouge it prior to staining or after, it will show no matter what and is normal for cedar.
If you want to sand any rough boards, do it now. Using 60 grit.
Looking to stain this new ceiling. Do I need to sand it prior to staining?
Same as the article above explains. 4 or more months, and the cleaning and brightening for prep. No need to sand.
I sanded my cedar decks old stain off and applied the 101 cedar tone I applied two even coats early this morning. It sucked in the stain like a sponge, should I apply any more costs here is the finished result.
No, more is not better. Looks good!
My deck is 7 months old. 2×6 pressure treated pine. 1000sq ft of which 500 sq ft is covered by roof. Moisture meter says 10% to 12% but water absorption test shows absorbed within 10 mins but not in covered area. How can I be sure it’s ready to stain? I read new wood is 1 coat first and then 9 months later another light coat
You can prep and stain now, as the above directions state. Just one coat.
Thanks for the quick reply. Also the company to stain deck advises they will sand deck first (perhaps light sand). I have seen conflicting opinions on sanding PT wood. Again this is brand new unstained deck that still has the mill glaze and may be 8 or 9 months old by the time I stain.
No need to sand, just use the prep kit while lightly pressure washing: https://www.twpstain.com/gemini-s-restore-a-deck-cleaner-and-brightener-kit
Hello. I just bought a house and the ext deck is about six months old. It is unpainted and unstained. The steps are untreated wood, the deck is treated. Can I start staining now?
Yes, but follow directions in the above article.
For TWP 1500, would this be safe for my dogs to walk on once it has reached the stated drying time? Thanks
Yes, once fully dried and cured.
I’m refurbishing a 40+ year old cedar porch swing. A few of the boards had to be replaced. I’ve sanded all the boards. Think I read where 120 grit sandpaper was recommended for maximim absorbacy before the stain is applied. Is this correct? If I sand the new boards the same, will they absorb the stain? I’ve ordered sample colors as we also plan to do our deck this summer. I’ll have a whole new set of questions for that.
No, that is incorrect. Never sand finer than 60-80 grit. Also, sanding does not prep new wood, only natural weathering, and then using a cleaner and brightener is sufficient. Sanding actually makes the wood less absorbent. Please follow the directions for new wood in the above article.
I am planning to use TWP 100 on a dock at the lake in Georgia. Boards are all PTP, 2x8x8.
Do I need to do a moisture content test on the wood before staining? If so, will a standard hygrometer suffice and what should I be looking for readings wise before applying the stain?
Thanks
You would need to follow the new wood directions in the article. It is more about the porosity of the wood than it is about the moisture percentage. So no, you do not need to buy one.
Hi! We built a new cedar wood deck in the fall, so the wood old has been outside for about 6-8 months now. I tested the moisture and the wood is dry, so tried staining a piece of scrap wood and it’s very spotty. It almost seems like the dots are the wood grain as we didn’t do any kind of sanding. But it also doesn’t seem like the stain has absorbed as much as I expected it to. Do you think an application of the Gemini products would help it absorb better, or should we sand it? I didn’t do the Gemini on our deck yet as I wanted to see if it needed it first but I know that would remove the mill glaze, if that’s what we’re dealing with. This is the 1500 product as that’s all we could get here in MI
Yes, you need to prep to remove oxidation and mill glaze. As for the dots, that is part of your wood grain.
I live in Cairo, GA. A few miles North of Tallahassee, FL. My deck was finished last year around November 20th, 2025. We used a Pressure Treated Pine bought here in the South. We would like to begin staining our deck with the TWP 1500 Stain. Can we proceed or should we wait? And is that the best product that will last the longest for our deck? We like the TWP 101 Cedartone?
You can prep and stain now. Use this for prep:
https://www.twpstain.com/restore-a-deck-stripper-brightener-kit
As for the stain, you can use either the 100 or 1500 Series for GA,
This is a brand NEW deck. Nothing needs stripping. Pressure treated Southern Pine was used and the deck was built November 2025. Last year. So my question is can I stain it now?
I’m being told that staining will also last a year and then I will have to stain again next year because it is NEW wood.
Dave
Sorry, sent the wrong link. You need the cleaner kit:
https://www.twpstain.com/gemini-s-restore-a-deck-cleaner-and-brightener-kit
You must prep.
We stained our deck without stirring the can of stain. Now half of our deck is light and the other is orange. How do we go about fixing that? Thanks!
Use this kit to remove all and start over.
https://www.twpstain.com/restore-a-deck-stripper-brightener-kit-detail
Thank you for your prompt reply! I already have the stripper. Do I need to use the brighter as well? Thanks!
Yes, it is needed.
I’m about to stain for the first time my PT pine deck that was built last May and want to use TWP 100 series (I’m in Louisiana). When it’s time to restain the deck, do I use the Restore-A-Deck cleaner and brightener or do I need to use Restore-A-Deck Stripper and brightener each time even if I stay with TWP stain?
Cleaner and brightener when recoating is normal.
Thanks for your quick reply.
How consistent is your coloring with the 5 gallon pecan?
I got a 1gallon pecan did few tests between couple other colors. Guy decided pecan i did a gallons worth then he ordered 3 5gallons. By looks of it will need another 10 5gallons. We gotta do a shop 40×60 and house 24×44 worth of board and batten rough cut cedar. Doing 2 coats real light 2nd. After letting 1st batch dry after couple days. It does not look like the 1 gallon. Same process ect. Though they do not look the same. Even the 1 coat dried looks different and so does another process of doing it. They are not as orange (dont mind) but I dont want a multi colored siding property when done.
Id there a perfered method for doing new rough cut cedar? Ive done way the instructions say and most videos ect and also a 15min dry then wipe dry 10m then apply dry after 15m. Just alot of sq ft to coat. Course they came out different shades. But nothing like the 1 gallon to 5gallon difference
All batches are tested to ensure the colors are correct for quality control. 99% of the time, if there is a color difference, it is due to not stirring or mixing properly before application or to the application method.
TWP is designed to be applied wet on wet for rough-sawn wood that has no prior TWP coatings in the past. See here for tips: https://twpstainhelp.com/twp-stain-wet-on-wet-application/
i have rough cut cypress which i have sanded, would this require waiting?
If sanded smooth, then yes.
What product do you recommend for a new cedar fence and the desire to reveal as much of the natural color as possible? In Oklahoma so hot dry sunny summers and ocasional bitter cold, though we do have some wet periods that can be, well, very wet. Thanks
Use the TWP 100 Series. Honeytone is the lightest tint.
Thanks!
I am staining pressure treated rough sawn 5/8” thick pine wood fencing panels and staining both sides of the panels before I put them up. I have let them “weather” and moisture content is down to 12% according to my moisture meter. Is it ready for staining with TWP 100? What should moisture content be if 12% is not dry enough?
It needs to be installed, appropriately weathered, and then prepped. It is not about moisture %, but porosity. There is also no need to stain both sides. Just the exposed side after following the steps above.
Thank you, please clarify how to measure porosity? It is a shadow box fence where all sides are visible and need to be stained. Also very difficult to stain after install even with a sprayer. Thank you
Is the fence wood rough sawn cut or smooth? You cannot “measure” porosity. If it is smooth wood, you have to follow the directions stated in article.
Fence panels are rough sawn pressure treated pine. It has weathered for 2 months in NC where we have had low humidity for the past month and very sunny warm days.
As the above article states, no need for weather or prep of rough-sawn cut wood.
I have fairly-new rough sawn wood beams that were installed summer 2024. Should I purchase the Gemini restore a deck kit and clean it before applying stain? It has been through one winter spring and summer.
Yes.
Our 16 month old fence will be getting stained for the first time, would we still only put one coat of stain on it?
Two coats wet on wet.
Thanks for the quick response! 😀
Hello, I’m trying to decide when to stain Pine ‘peeled logs’ used for railings and posts at a cabin in AZ. They were installed only 2 months ago, but apparently peeled while green, then sit “for a while” I’m the lumber yard before being sold. Do you think we’re okay to stain the posts before winter sets in?
Thank you!
No yet, it has to weather for at least 4 months and then be prepped.
I’m prepping a 7 year old fence for TWP 100. The fence has never been stained. I’ve gone through the restore a deck process and it knocked off a lot of grime and lightened the color, but some of the more sun bleached areas are still pretty gray. Is this acceptable or does it need more prep?
We would suggest another round. Make sure you are pressure washing after applying the cleaner step.
If we have previously used TWP on our siding & deck, can you then apply a different oil based wood preservative stain (Outlast). Our contractor is not familiar with TWP and will not use it since he warranties his work,he doesn’t want to be responsible for any yellowing?
That would be more of a question for Outlast, as we do not know if it will work over the TWP.
Pine car siding in exterior cover patio. Contractor wants us to stain & seal before installed. Is this possible with this stain? Would I need to apple a wood conditioner. How many coats of stain. What sealer or is there a sealer in stain. Color light to medium. No orange, yellow or red.
No, you have to install and weather the wood first, as the article explains. Do not use a conditioner with TWP stains. You cannot apply a sealer over a wood stain like TWP. No need, as well as exterior wood stains, will help to seal the wood.
i have pine car side inside my exterior portico it’s been up since june 1500 series is recommended once i get my samples and decide on a color will my carside be ready to have stain applied ? i also have rough hewn cedar and cedar to stain as well at the same time i already have greying on my cedar post and so whitening as well i am going to purchase the prep kit as suggested. how long after the prep kit do i start staining?
You can stain all the wood once you do the prep on all the wood. Wait 48 hours after prep or rain to let the wood dry before applying..
We have a 4 year old pressure treated pine deck. It has never been stained or painted. I read where you recommend only applying one coat of TSP 1500 if the wood is only several months to a year old because it is not ready to fully absorb the stain. Since ours is 4 years old, is it okay, or even best, to apply two coats!
For your wood, you will need the two coats applied wet on wet:
https://twpstainhelp.com/twp-stain-wet-on-wet-application/
New, 600 sqft redwood deck in central AZ, 6000 ft elevation. The wood feels like it’s dried out sufficiently, is two months seasoning time enough? It is going to get cold and snow soon.
Nope, needs the 4-12 months and then prep. It is not about how dried out it is, but the porosity of the wood. Do it in the Spring.
I’m installing a red cedar deck this weekend in the Midwest (the lumber is dry). By what I’ve been reading on your site, I should NOT seal it AT ALL now and just wait for Spring to do it? Would the winter / snow / dirt / usage not degrade the wood and also make it change substantially from how it looks now (new)? When I eventually seal it, let’s say going with the Gemini Restore A Deck Kit, will the wood go back to looking *new* ? How about the bottom part of the deck. It’s a 18″ high deck, so I was planning to seal all sides of the deck now. If I don’t, won’t it be more easily damaged by the elements (there’s a concrete patio below)? Thanks!
Yes, wait until Spring to prep and stain. One winter won’t damage the wood. When yo u prep, it will remove any dirt, mill glaze, and oxidation.
Only stain the exposed sides, not all sides. The wood needs to breathe and not be 100% sealed.
Since I want to keep as much of the original look of the cedar, what product do you recommend (for spring and for now)? Can I locally find your products? I live in the 60053 zip code. If I can’t find your product in the store, what do you recommend to use, something I can just buy at Home Depot / Lowes / Menards (any other local shop that’s open today) Thanks for your help!
It’s new wood, you can’t coat it now. Do the prep and stain in the Spring. FYI, we sell TWP stains, we do not recommend other brands, especially anything sold at big box stores.